R onewheel
Onewheel -●- The Self-Balancing Electric Skateboard
2014.01.12 06:17 Daroza Onewheel -●- The Self-Balancing Electric Skateboard
The revolutionary new electric boardsport that allows you to carve the planet earth in ways never thought possible.
2019.07.03 01:41 Jushooter OneWheel Pint
The central hub for the OneWheel Pint!
2017.10.17 11:16 noobhands Insta360
A community of visual creators with a passion for filming and enjoying footage made with Insta360 cameras.
2023.03.16 16:35 dazole I made a forged carbon fiber controller box for my Vesc
Easy Composites (EC, from here on out) makes it seem so dang easy to do this kind of stuff! And mostly it is. Here's my first CF piece using chopped tow and compression molding per the Easy Composites videos. The part is a controller box for a onewheel, based off the the WTFoc design. Trigger warning: Some things in this post might make you cringe, or just laugh at my fumbling attempts at doing a CF. You’ve been warned.
Most of the cutouts for the wires, charger, power button, etc are not in my piece for a couple reasons: 1) I don't think the process would've worked if they were there and 2) I have custom holes I'll be cutting in my part for my custom connections (think MagSafe for charging).
I did run into some…issues during the process. The original part was a 3d printed PA-CF part, that had some pretty harsh layer lines. All that had to be smoothed out. Even after alot of dremeling and sanding, I wasn’t happy with the result. So I got some resin and coated it. Because I’m impatient and don’t really know what I’m doing, I used “Promise Clear Table top Epoxy Resin”. I applied a coat of that, which turned out to be too thick and not applied very well. So, I sanded it down again and added another, thinner coat. The extra coating hopefully has the added benefit of helping lessen the adhesion when I create my mold (Narrator: it did not). Again, sanded it down until it was smooth enough for me.
Per the EC video, next up was filling the inside with clay and creating the shell for the mold. I didn’t really have a reference (other than their video) for how much clay to leave below my piece, and in hindsight, I probably could’ve cut that in half…and made it actually level. I had to use some clay to "level off" some bits that probably would have made extraction from the mold difficult as well. Also, I’m not good at measuring, so my shell was a bit…weird. But it worked.
I made up my first batch of casting resin…actually, let’s stop here for a sec. There are no instructions for how much resin to make for this. I even asked EC if there was a calculation method to help me get close and their response was basically “make some. If it’s not enough, make more. If you have some left over, you made too much”. Huh. So I started with 2.5k to see how that would go. Turns out, not quite enough so I made another .5k, which worked out perfect. If I would’ve trimmed the under part of the clay (where the draft angle is), 2.5k probably would’ve been enough. And as you’ll see soon, I’ll wish I had done that. Anyway, 4 bottles of brake fluid for bracing and the first pour was ready to cure.
And it actually turned out pretty damn good!! Next up was cleaning it up and getting ready for the second pour. I did have a tiny sense of foreboding about this second pour. See, the resin container is only 5k. And I already used 3. I was hoping that I’d still be able to finish it, though. Turns out, not so much. Fuck.
First thing the next morning I went to Michaels. I bought 24oz of Alumilite Deep Pour epoxy, sanded the crap out of the casting resin and YOLO'd. At this point, I really had no expectation that this was going to work at all. I had already ordered 2 more 5k buckets of the casting resin in anticipation of this whole process so far just turning to shit. Turns out, so far my luck held. Not only did the Alumilite adhere, it separated almost without any issue! Wooooo!!! I couldn’t freakin’ believe it! The original 3d part I was using to create the mold didn’t make it. R.I.P.
I was almost done! I had a mold ready to go! I cleaned that sucker up, sprayed 5 layers of the RW4 mold release and started looking at the calculations so I knew how much resin and CF to use. According to Shapr3d, my original part was about 164 cc’s. Per EC, that means approx 139g of chopped CF and 174g of resin compound. I didn’t take any pics of this process, because my hands were covered in tow and goo. However, I did have to add an extra 65g of resin compound. That’s how it felt, anyway. So I did. Then put the two mold pieces together, clamped them up and waited.
This next 24 hours was the most painful 24 hours I’ve had in a long time. I kept going into the garage hoping that space/time worked different there and my project was ready. Alas, it was not so. Went to bed. Woke up at 3:30a because fuck me. I needed to finish this project! But I waited. Exactly 24h after I sealed the mold, I started going to work. And it didn't go well. At all. After a lot of gentle coaxing with a mallet, I managed to get my CF piece extracted from the mold. Or what was left of it, anyway, heh! I’m sure the problem was a mixture of using the table top resin and that other stuff to “improve my chances” of success, but the mold is completely destroyed. BUT I HAVE A CF PIECE!!!
Lessons learned that I’ll be applying to my next attempt at this exact same piece: 1). Don’t use PA-CF. I’ll be getting a different material 3d printed next time. 2) Get enough of all the materials you’ll need. I have 2 5k containers of the casting resin sitting in my garage waiting. 3) This is fun as shit and I have so many more things I want to make! And not just chopped CF, but using other methods, too.
The Easy Composites video I followed: and part 2
I'm already working on a v2 with some changes I think will work better. Feel free to ask any question and/or laugh :)
submitted by dazole to onewheel [link] [comments]
Most of the cutouts for the wires, charger, power button, etc are not in my piece for a couple reasons: 1) I don't think the process would've worked if they were there and 2) I have custom holes I'll be cutting in my part for my custom connections (think MagSafe for charging).
I did run into some…issues during the process. The original part was a 3d printed PA-CF part, that had some pretty harsh layer lines. All that had to be smoothed out. Even after alot of dremeling and sanding, I wasn’t happy with the result. So I got some resin and coated it. Because I’m impatient and don’t really know what I’m doing, I used “Promise Clear Table top Epoxy Resin”. I applied a coat of that, which turned out to be too thick and not applied very well. So, I sanded it down again and added another, thinner coat. The extra coating hopefully has the added benefit of helping lessen the adhesion when I create my mold (Narrator: it did not). Again, sanded it down until it was smooth enough for me.
Per the EC video, next up was filling the inside with clay and creating the shell for the mold. I didn’t really have a reference (other than their video) for how much clay to leave below my piece, and in hindsight, I probably could’ve cut that in half…and made it actually level. I had to use some clay to "level off" some bits that probably would have made extraction from the mold difficult as well. Also, I’m not good at measuring, so my shell was a bit…weird. But it worked.
I made up my first batch of casting resin…actually, let’s stop here for a sec. There are no instructions for how much resin to make for this. I even asked EC if there was a calculation method to help me get close and their response was basically “make some. If it’s not enough, make more. If you have some left over, you made too much”. Huh. So I started with 2.5k to see how that would go. Turns out, not quite enough so I made another .5k, which worked out perfect. If I would’ve trimmed the under part of the clay (where the draft angle is), 2.5k probably would’ve been enough. And as you’ll see soon, I’ll wish I had done that. Anyway, 4 bottles of brake fluid for bracing and the first pour was ready to cure.
And it actually turned out pretty damn good!! Next up was cleaning it up and getting ready for the second pour. I did have a tiny sense of foreboding about this second pour. See, the resin container is only 5k. And I already used 3. I was hoping that I’d still be able to finish it, though. Turns out, not so much. Fuck.
First thing the next morning I went to Michaels. I bought 24oz of Alumilite Deep Pour epoxy, sanded the crap out of the casting resin and YOLO'd. At this point, I really had no expectation that this was going to work at all. I had already ordered 2 more 5k buckets of the casting resin in anticipation of this whole process so far just turning to shit. Turns out, so far my luck held. Not only did the Alumilite adhere, it separated almost without any issue! Wooooo!!! I couldn’t freakin’ believe it! The original 3d part I was using to create the mold didn’t make it. R.I.P.
I was almost done! I had a mold ready to go! I cleaned that sucker up, sprayed 5 layers of the RW4 mold release and started looking at the calculations so I knew how much resin and CF to use. According to Shapr3d, my original part was about 164 cc’s. Per EC, that means approx 139g of chopped CF and 174g of resin compound. I didn’t take any pics of this process, because my hands were covered in tow and goo. However, I did have to add an extra 65g of resin compound. That’s how it felt, anyway. So I did. Then put the two mold pieces together, clamped them up and waited.
This next 24 hours was the most painful 24 hours I’ve had in a long time. I kept going into the garage hoping that space/time worked different there and my project was ready. Alas, it was not so. Went to bed. Woke up at 3:30a because fuck me. I needed to finish this project! But I waited. Exactly 24h after I sealed the mold, I started going to work. And it didn't go well. At all. After a lot of gentle coaxing with a mallet, I managed to get my CF piece extracted from the mold. Or what was left of it, anyway, heh! I’m sure the problem was a mixture of using the table top resin and that other stuff to “improve my chances” of success, but the mold is completely destroyed. BUT I HAVE A CF PIECE!!!
Lessons learned that I’ll be applying to my next attempt at this exact same piece: 1). Don’t use PA-CF. I’ll be getting a different material 3d printed next time. 2) Get enough of all the materials you’ll need. I have 2 5k containers of the casting resin sitting in my garage waiting. 3) This is fun as shit and I have so many more things I want to make! And not just chopped CF, but using other methods, too.
The Easy Composites video I followed: and part 2
I'm already working on a v2 with some changes I think will work better. Feel free to ask any question and/or laugh :)
2023.03.15 23:00 dazole First carbon fiber piece (chopped, compressed)
Easy Composites (EC, from here on out) makes it seem so dang easy! And mostly it is. Here's my first CF piece using chopped tow and compression molding per the Easy Composites videos. The part is a controller box for a onewheel, based off the the WTFoc design. Trigger warning: Some things in this post might make you cringe, or just laugh at my fumbling attempts at doing a CF. You’ve been warned.
I did run into some…issues during the process. The original part was a 3d printed PA-CF part, that had some pretty harsh layer lines. All that had to be smoothed out. Even after alot of dremeling and sanding, I wasn’t happy with the result. So I got some resin and coated it. Because I’m impatient and don’t really know what I’m doing, I used “Promise Clear Table top Epoxy Resin”. I applied a coat of that, which turned out to be too thick and not applied very well. So, I sanded it down again and added another, thinner coat. The extra coating hopefully has the added benefit of helping lessen the adhesion when I create my mold (Narrator: it did not). Again, sanded it down until it was smooth enough for me.
Per the EC video, next up was filling the inside with clay and creating the shell for the mold. I didn’t really have a reference (other than their video) for how much clay to leave below my piece, and in hindsight, I probably could’ve cut that in half…and made it actually level. I had to use some clay to "level off" some bits that probably would have made extraction from the mold difficult as well. Also, I’m not good at measuring, so my shell was a bit…weird. But it worked.
I made up my first batch of casting resin…actually, let’s stop here for a sec. There are no instructions for how much resin to make for this. I even asked EC if there was a calculation method to help me get close and their response was basically “make some. If it’s not enough, make more. If you have some left over, you made too much”. Huh. So I started with 2.5k to see how that would go. Turns out, not quite enough so I made another .5k, which worked out perfect. If I would’ve trimmed the under part of the clay (where the draft angle is), 2.5k probably would’ve been enough. And as you’ll see soon, I’ll wish I had done that. Anyway, 4 bottles of brake fluid for bracing and the first pour was ready to cure.
And it actually turned out pretty damn good!! Next up was cleaning it up and getting ready for the second pour. I did have a tiny sense of foreboding about this second pour. See, the resin container is only 5k. And I already used 3. I was hoping that I’d still be able to finish it, though. Turns out, not so much. Fuck.
First thing the next morning I went to Michaels. I bought 24oz of Alumilite Deep Pour epoxy, sanded the crap out of the casting resin and YOLO'd. At this point, I really had no expectation that this was going to work at all. I had already ordered 2 more 5k buckets of the casting resin in anticipation of this whole process so far just turning to shit. Turns out, so far my luck held. Not only did the Alumilite adhere, it separated almost without any issue! Wooooo!!! I couldn’t freakin’ believe it! The original 3d part I was using to create the mold didn’t make it. R.I.P.
I was almost done! I had a mold ready to go! I cleaned that sucker up, sprayed 5 layers of the RW4 mold release and started looking at the calculations so I knew how much resin and CF to use. According to Shapr3d, my original part was about 164 cc’s. Per EC, that means approx 139g of chopped CF and 174g of resin compound. I didn’t take any pics of this process, because my hands were covered in tow and goo. However, I did have to add an extra 65g of resin compound. That’s how it felt, anyway. So I did. Then put the two mold pieces together, clamped them up and waited.
This next 24 hours was the most painful 24 hours I’ve had in a long time. I kept going into the garage hoping that space/time worked different there and my project was ready. Alas, it was not so. Went to bed. Woke up at 3:30a because fuck me. I needed to finish this project! But I waited. Exactly 24h after I sealed the mold, I started going to work. And it didn't go well. At all. After a lot of gentle coaxing with a mallet, I managed to get my CF piece extracted from the mold. Or what was left of it, anyway, heh! I’m sure the problem was a mixture of using the table top resin and that other stuff to “improve my chances” of success, but the mold is completely destroyed. BUT I HAVE A CF PIECE!!!
Lessons learned that I’ll be applying to my next attempt at this exact same piece: 1). Don’t use PA-CF. I’ll be getting a different material 3d printed next time. 2) Get enough of all the materials you’ll need. I have 2 5k containers of the casting resin sitting in my garage waiting. 3) This is fun as shit and I have so many more things I want to make! And not just chopped CF, but using other methods, too.
Anyway, thanks for everyone here for the help with some of my questions!
submitted by dazole to CarbonFiber [link] [comments]
I did run into some…issues during the process. The original part was a 3d printed PA-CF part, that had some pretty harsh layer lines. All that had to be smoothed out. Even after alot of dremeling and sanding, I wasn’t happy with the result. So I got some resin and coated it. Because I’m impatient and don’t really know what I’m doing, I used “Promise Clear Table top Epoxy Resin”. I applied a coat of that, which turned out to be too thick and not applied very well. So, I sanded it down again and added another, thinner coat. The extra coating hopefully has the added benefit of helping lessen the adhesion when I create my mold (Narrator: it did not). Again, sanded it down until it was smooth enough for me.
Per the EC video, next up was filling the inside with clay and creating the shell for the mold. I didn’t really have a reference (other than their video) for how much clay to leave below my piece, and in hindsight, I probably could’ve cut that in half…and made it actually level. I had to use some clay to "level off" some bits that probably would have made extraction from the mold difficult as well. Also, I’m not good at measuring, so my shell was a bit…weird. But it worked.
I made up my first batch of casting resin…actually, let’s stop here for a sec. There are no instructions for how much resin to make for this. I even asked EC if there was a calculation method to help me get close and their response was basically “make some. If it’s not enough, make more. If you have some left over, you made too much”. Huh. So I started with 2.5k to see how that would go. Turns out, not quite enough so I made another .5k, which worked out perfect. If I would’ve trimmed the under part of the clay (where the draft angle is), 2.5k probably would’ve been enough. And as you’ll see soon, I’ll wish I had done that. Anyway, 4 bottles of brake fluid for bracing and the first pour was ready to cure.
And it actually turned out pretty damn good!! Next up was cleaning it up and getting ready for the second pour. I did have a tiny sense of foreboding about this second pour. See, the resin container is only 5k. And I already used 3. I was hoping that I’d still be able to finish it, though. Turns out, not so much. Fuck.
First thing the next morning I went to Michaels. I bought 24oz of Alumilite Deep Pour epoxy, sanded the crap out of the casting resin and YOLO'd. At this point, I really had no expectation that this was going to work at all. I had already ordered 2 more 5k buckets of the casting resin in anticipation of this whole process so far just turning to shit. Turns out, so far my luck held. Not only did the Alumilite adhere, it separated almost without any issue! Wooooo!!! I couldn’t freakin’ believe it! The original 3d part I was using to create the mold didn’t make it. R.I.P.
I was almost done! I had a mold ready to go! I cleaned that sucker up, sprayed 5 layers of the RW4 mold release and started looking at the calculations so I knew how much resin and CF to use. According to Shapr3d, my original part was about 164 cc’s. Per EC, that means approx 139g of chopped CF and 174g of resin compound. I didn’t take any pics of this process, because my hands were covered in tow and goo. However, I did have to add an extra 65g of resin compound. That’s how it felt, anyway. So I did. Then put the two mold pieces together, clamped them up and waited.
This next 24 hours was the most painful 24 hours I’ve had in a long time. I kept going into the garage hoping that space/time worked different there and my project was ready. Alas, it was not so. Went to bed. Woke up at 3:30a because fuck me. I needed to finish this project! But I waited. Exactly 24h after I sealed the mold, I started going to work. And it didn't go well. At all. After a lot of gentle coaxing with a mallet, I managed to get my CF piece extracted from the mold. Or what was left of it, anyway, heh! I’m sure the problem was a mixture of using the table top resin and that other stuff to “improve my chances” of success, but the mold is completely destroyed. BUT I HAVE A CF PIECE!!!
Lessons learned that I’ll be applying to my next attempt at this exact same piece: 1). Don’t use PA-CF. I’ll be getting a different material 3d printed next time. 2) Get enough of all the materials you’ll need. I have 2 5k containers of the casting resin sitting in my garage waiting. 3) This is fun as shit and I have so many more things I want to make! And not just chopped CF, but using other methods, too.
Anyway, thanks for everyone here for the help with some of my questions!
2023.03.06 21:22 _MoonRider_ VESC Check List & Battery Question
Here is the list of parts I've found and rails that I liked. Are these parts correct or are there more or is there anything else I need? Just wanting to make sure my knowledge is correct before buying the rest of the parts.
Battery: https://www.mariocontino.com/.../20s2p-custom-battery-for... BMS XLITE24: https://www.ennoid.me/bms/xlite Flowglider: https://www.makerspev.com/products/flowglider-diy-bundle Rails: https://fungineers.tech/.../rails-and-adapter-3d-printed... Footpad sensor: https://onewheel.com/products/surestance Focer: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5325535 Battery Harness: https://www.makerspev.com/.../16-pin-molex-battery... Lid Mount: https://www.flowglider.com/.../lid-mount-version-of.../ Connector Cover: https://www.flowglider.com/.../pro.../wtfoc-connector-cove Charger: https://chibatterysystems.com/collections/84v-chargers/products/20s5a
NOTE: Already bought a Motor (Superflux) & Tire (Enduro) I am also Planning on building the 20S2P Battery using these cells: https://www.18650batterystore.com/products/molicel-p28a Anything I should know about the battery assembly? I know the basics of spot welding the cells together but not sure about wiring it up which I'd love some videos that would better explain it simply.
submitted by _MoonRider_ to wheel [link] [comments]
Battery: https://www.mariocontino.com/.../20s2p-custom-battery-for... BMS XLITE24: https://www.ennoid.me/bms/xlite Flowglider: https://www.makerspev.com/products/flowglider-diy-bundle Rails: https://fungineers.tech/.../rails-and-adapter-3d-printed... Footpad sensor: https://onewheel.com/products/surestance Focer: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5325535 Battery Harness: https://www.makerspev.com/.../16-pin-molex-battery... Lid Mount: https://www.flowglider.com/.../lid-mount-version-of.../ Connector Cover: https://www.flowglider.com/.../pro.../wtfoc-connector-cove Charger: https://chibatterysystems.com/collections/84v-chargers/products/20s5a
NOTE: Already bought a Motor (Superflux) & Tire (Enduro) I am also Planning on building the 20S2P Battery using these cells: https://www.18650batterystore.com/products/molicel-p28a Anything I should know about the battery assembly? I know the basics of spot welding the cells together but not sure about wiring it up which I'd love some videos that would better explain it simply.
2023.03.05 19:27 SnooHedgehogs6017 This for real? Or will my bank account get cleaned out
 | submitted by SnooHedgehogs6017 to onewheel [link] [comments] |
2023.03.04 03:19 Glyph8 GT Enduro Review From A Pavement Cruiser - Update
Followup to original post: TFL said that tire was defective (made from an incorrect mold which rendered it too large for the GT frame, so that any PSI above 16 rubbed, and it was constantly getting pebbles and debris caught in there) and sent me a new one; along with the usual TFL tchotchkes (drink koozie, valve stem cap, dice, golf peg, etc.) they also included a valve core remover and Stay-A-Float sealant, which was an incredibly nice touch! Top-notch customer service from TFL as usual.
The new tire is in fact sized quite differently, with PLENTY of clearance inside the frame. I haven't had a chance to ride much (it was only installed today) but I was able to run it at 21 PSI with no trouble and there appears to be ample room to go much higher, should I choose.
And I may experiment with that, as the tire's durometer ensures it remains soft enough that even at that pressure I don't find it jarring; as a pavement rider who doesn't do much in the way of tricks aside from the occasional curb drop or small bonk, I prefer a higher PSI for reasons of range, tire longevity, and nimbleness/responsiveness. It's more important to me to be able to deftly maneuver around a pothole (or a pedestrian...) than to absorb all shock if I don't (that's what my knees are for!)
And at the higher PSI I got back the nimbleness and responsiveness I was missing, such that I was able to put the board back into Highline (I'd moved back into using Flow, since Flow's increased side-to-side roll compensated somewhat for the mushiness of the defective, lower-PSI tire).
I'm now happy to say that much as the Whisper was for the XR, the Enduro is a clear across-the-board improvement over the GT stock tire - grippy, cushiony, stable, and should you choose it, nimble and responsive.
Thanks TFL!
submitted by Glyph8 to onewheel [link] [comments]
The new tire is in fact sized quite differently, with PLENTY of clearance inside the frame. I haven't had a chance to ride much (it was only installed today) but I was able to run it at 21 PSI with no trouble and there appears to be ample room to go much higher, should I choose.
And I may experiment with that, as the tire's durometer ensures it remains soft enough that even at that pressure I don't find it jarring; as a pavement rider who doesn't do much in the way of tricks aside from the occasional curb drop or small bonk, I prefer a higher PSI for reasons of range, tire longevity, and nimbleness/responsiveness. It's more important to me to be able to deftly maneuver around a pothole (or a pedestrian...) than to absorb all shock if I don't (that's what my knees are for!)
And at the higher PSI I got back the nimbleness and responsiveness I was missing, such that I was able to put the board back into Highline (I'd moved back into using Flow, since Flow's increased side-to-side roll compensated somewhat for the mushiness of the defective, lower-PSI tire).
I'm now happy to say that much as the Whisper was for the XR, the Enduro is a clear across-the-board improvement over the GT stock tire - grippy, cushiony, stable, and should you choose it, nimble and responsive.
Thanks TFL!
2023.03.01 16:14 ascendgranite Pint X with Mini Fins
Previous post
I mounted the Mini Fins to my Pint X on the stock Future Motion fender and wanted to share my experience so far
Installation notes:
I don’t think FF markets these as compatible with FM fenders, since they want you to buy their fender system. But it does work! After measuring and drilling the holes, I installed the bolts no more than 1/8” past the locknut, and then coated the top of the nut and bolt with hot glue to keep it in place if it ever comes loose. They seem really solidly attached. Just put your foot on the board, line the fins up with your foot, and mark the holes. Triple check since you can’t un-drill the holes in the fender, and don’t drill through the fender while it is still on the board!
Pros:
https://imgur.com/a/zevNxMg/
submitted by ascendgranite to onewheel [link] [comments]
I mounted the Mini Fins to my Pint X on the stock Future Motion fender and wanted to share my experience so far
Installation notes:
I don’t think FF markets these as compatible with FM fenders, since they want you to buy their fender system. But it does work! After measuring and drilling the holes, I installed the bolts no more than 1/8” past the locknut, and then coated the top of the nut and bolt with hot glue to keep it in place if it ever comes loose. They seem really solidly attached. Just put your foot on the board, line the fins up with your foot, and mark the holes. Triple check since you can’t un-drill the holes in the fender, and don’t drill through the fender while it is still on the board!
Pros:
- extremely fun to ride, they give the Pint X a locked in, maneuverable feel
- curb nudges and bonks are so easy with the back fin, it’s like a cheat code. It’s also a blast!
- durable. I’ve rolled the board and they survive without visible wear
- AirTag pocket in the fin itself is convenient, although it seems 1mm too short. This also means you have to remove the fin to change the AirTag battery every year or so
- a little janky to install, but that’s to be expected since they’re technically not compatible with the stock fender
- you have to drill holes in the fender, so this is a one way ticket
- the edges of the fins do not sit flush with the curve of the fender, but that doesn’t affect functionality
https://imgur.com/a/zevNxMg/
2023.03.01 15:02 IntelliDev r/wheel Monthly Marketplace
Welcome to the monthly wheel Marketplace!
This thread is for everything buy/sell related. Here, users can buy/sell Onewheels and accessories, and vendors are free to promote their wares.
submitted by IntelliDev to wheel [link] [comments]
This thread is for everything buy/sell related. Here, users can buy/sell Onewheels and accessories, and vendors are free to promote their wares.
Guidelines
The marketplace guidelines are as follows:- Please clearly state if you’re buying or selling an item.
- If you’ve sold an item, please edit your post to state that it’s no longer available.
- Linking to your own external shop is permitted, as long as your clearly describe what’s being sold within your comment.
- Affiliate links are not permitted within this thread.
Previous Megathreads
You can find the previous wheel Marketplace megathreads here: https://www.reddit.com/search?q=subreddit:wheel+title:marketplace2023.02.17 19:05 nybjj Urban/City Onewheelers, do you use Simplestop or not?
For those here who ride mainly in a high traffic/urban environment, do you use Simplestop?
Background: I ride predominantly in Manhattan. I first learned how to ride with Simplestop on my Pint, and have racked up about 1,500 miles since, always keeping it on, so it's basically imprinted on me at this point. I've felt very uncomfortable dismounting without it, and my rationale for keeping it enabled is to have an additional/easy way to stop since I'm riding in the city and can stop without much thought at traffic lights, for example.
It seems that most of onewheel strongly prefers disabling Simplestop, as do my friends that ride in Manhattan. I personally don't need to go backwards or need to ride goofy, but am I missing something by not disabling it?
Thanks, everyone!
submitted by nybjj to onewheel [link] [comments]
Background: I ride predominantly in Manhattan. I first learned how to ride with Simplestop on my Pint, and have racked up about 1,500 miles since, always keeping it on, so it's basically imprinted on me at this point. I've felt very uncomfortable dismounting without it, and my rationale for keeping it enabled is to have an additional/easy way to stop since I'm riding in the city and can stop without much thought at traffic lights, for example.
It seems that most of onewheel strongly prefers disabling Simplestop, as do my friends that ride in Manhattan. I personally don't need to go backwards or need to ride goofy, but am I missing something by not disabling it?
Thanks, everyone!
2023.02.17 04:51 nybjj Just arrived today - welcome to the family! Thanks r/onewheel for all the advice!
 | submitted by nybjj to onewheel [link] [comments] |
2023.02.15 00:13 Izzymonster Danger Tire Review #2: The Revengencing
 | Please check out my first review, if you haven't, for initial impressions and comparisons to other tires. submitted by Izzymonster to onewheel [link] [comments] I have now ridden this tire around 300 trail miles and maybe 150 street miles. It's tough to know exactly because I have been switching up controllers. Here are some pictures I took yesterday. https://preview.redd.it/dtev8ifib8ia1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce0f953d0cdc05ce54957d5908216843426775e1 https://preview.redd.it/i7y77c0kb8ia1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=948ba904f7665ab608c263806965fb4dfb6d739d https://preview.redd.it/tpyrl00kb8ia1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=815aba506521d5388ffc423f8c6edbec2c7ab608 https://preview.redd.it/2dd67yzjb8ia1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3672822ad28a42dbf7681f6dc965bc07b08fe113 https://preview.redd.it/u2cepwzjb8ia1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e9cd420c35bbd82af9fa8d7676ba0fa8f5919c8 https://preview.redd.it/1tpzh50kb8ia1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0eda524db81fd0d99d0f461409c395e026dec495 Tire Wear There is very minimal wear on the tread. I am expecting this tire to last thousands of miles. That is saying a lot considering I only got about 1000 miles out of my hoosier treaded before it started leaking a lot. I believe this is because the rubber compound is more resistant to abrasion than kart tires I have seen. I have yet to see any tire sealant come through the tire. I added about 2-3 oz of tire candy sealant which is not a lot. I figured it would be smart to have some in there just in case. Before I added the sealant the tire would lose about 5psi per week, from 18 psi. I'm guessing it was just slow leakage through the bead. With the sealant, pressure stays in much better. I'm not noticing a significant drop week to week. Tire pressure I have ridden this tire from 8psi to 25 psi. 25 psi is max pressure for this tire and is too high for onewheel. The tire is extremely round and stiff. It feels very skatey and unstable on the street. It can be handled on trails but it just feels too hard. 18-20 psig is my preferable pressure for trails and street. It still gives a good shape for carving and some bounce for bonks and drops. I generally prefer higher pressures. I ride a hoosier tread at around 20-22. At 8 psig the tire still rides fine. It's not my preferred feel though. Carving does not feel as sharp. There is some more drag in the turns. The tire is much noisier on the street at low pressure. This is because the edges of the tire are knobbier than the center and they make more contact with the ground at low pressure. This has a pretty significant impact on range. I found that at 18-20 psig the noise and range are roughly equivalent to a treaded kart tire. In general, I think this tire can be run at lower pressures than typical kart tires because it has a thicker sidewall and stiffer compound. This makes it good to air down for better tire footprint. The Ride The past 4 months I have been riding this tire I have converted from XR controller to Vesc, little focer 3.1. The extra control that VESC gives you over the PID loop has really allowed me to push this tire to the limit. I have been carving this tire as hard as I can and it is so round it will roll all the way from one rim touching the ground to the other. Floater savers are absolutely required. This is the roundest tire I have seen on the market and it helps in so many ways. It makes narrow single track much easier. The corners of the tire don't catch on the sides and divert you. It is easier to get up and out of a rut for the same reason. If the single track is wide enough the carving feels amazing. The shape of the tire really keeps you in the lane so you can just relax you ankles a bit and let it cut back and forth. When you are on a trail that slopes to the side the board does not try to tilt you with the slope as hard. As I described in my first review, the tire compound is more absorbent and stiff compared to the hoosier tire which is more elastic and bouncy. I would say my initial impression still holds true. I am not able to get the same height out of my bonks with danger tire that I can with a hoosier slick. On the other hand, the landings on danger tire are extremely comfortable and stable. It is like the tire absorbs a lot of the shock from the landing and the stiff sidewalls keep it stable. Additionally the tire compound seems to better absorb rocks and roots. The jolts from riding over objects is dampened making it a good choice for very rough rides. Finally, the tread is the best part about the tire. It has been a very wet winter where I live and I have been pushing through the mud a ton. Also caught in the rain twice, which pretty much turned everything to mud. The last thing I had to worry about is the tire's performance. It has been a champ. Took me a little while to get used to, mostly because my experiences have made me very apprehensive about mud. Once I got the hang of it though, I've been pushing through 2 inches deep of sticky, rocky mud like I was born in it. This thing cannot be stopped. You can wheel slip if you enter the mud too fast. There will be a second where you are solely responsible for maintaining balance. But once the wheel catches again you can just plow on through. I really is amazing how well it works. I found that you just need to stay on the accelerator very lightly, like a car. If you brake there is a much greater chance of falling. Carving in the mud is also possible if it is not too deep. The edges of the tire have some nice knobs that catch really well. There was a couple times where I over extended myself while carving and I felt the wheel start to slip. On my old hoosier, if it started to slip in the mud, that was the beginning of the end. I'd be in the mud. With this tire I am actually able to regain my traction and save myself by cutting the board quickly back under my center line. I believe this is the best off road tire. The grippy tread, round profile and absorbent compound puts it head and shoulders above the currently available onewheel tires. |
2023.02.14 17:08 Glyph8 GT Enduro Review From A Pavement Cruiser
Hey all, I've put some time in on the GT Enduro now and figured I'd post a review. The TL; DR of that review is that the Enduro improves in some important respects over the stock treaded GT tire; but it's not an across-the-board improvement for me like the Whisper was on the XR, and depending on what you're looking for, you might want to stick with the stock tire, or wait for the FF Goat.
First, let me lay out the tires I've spent a lot of time on and will be using for comparison. I've spent at least 1000 miles minimum each on these (and most of them I've ridden multiple thousands of miles):
FIRST, THE GOOD NEWS: the tire is very stable and shock-absorbing, far more than stock. This is presumably largely due to the soft durometer, and the shape/profile (it is a very "squared" profile, kind of rectangular.) It is also very grippy. So this all goes very much into the Plus column, and is probably enough for me to give this tire a qualified "Buy" recommendation for anyone who uses the tire like I do. I'd call the way it absorbs shock, grips surfaces, and its stability at speed comparable to a Whisper. That's good!
NOW, THE BAD NEWS: due to that same shape and grippiness, however, it steers and handles kinda like a Vega (similar shape - square with wide contact patch - if you look at the footprint it leaves in dirt, it looks like a damn tank tread) and that’s bad. My board feels safer at speed, but not as fun. Even a toothier tread might have helped, since you might be able to pivot the tire on its “teeth”; but this tread is so shallow and mild that it doesn’t allow for that. Just grips and wants to go straight.
It's also more sluggish than the stock GT tire. Slower to take off the line, and I've had to go back to babying the GT a bit over certain train tracks because the board must work harder to turn the softer tire and I've nearly dropped the nose from being too aggressive.
This is compounded by the fact that you just CAN'T run the GT Enduro at a higher PSI without it rubbing the frame - anything above 16-17 PSI, it rubs. Normally if you want to maximize your tire responsiveness and nimbleness you can up the PSI, which rounds the profile and reduces the contact patch - I ran my Whispers as high as 27 or 29 before settling on a more knee-and-spine-friendly 21, and the FFT2 is perfect in the 18-19 range; but that's simply not possible here. I suspect part of the problem is simply that on the GT, FM did not leave much of a gap around the tire, so inflating a soft tire too much just rubs. (A lower-PSI tire generally also sacrifices range and tire longevity, two more minuses for the way I ride).
SHAPING-MODE PARTIAL FIX FOR THE BAD NEWS: The carviness/nimbleness can be somewhat restored by using Flow rather than Highline or Apex - on the stock tire I had gotten used to Highline, finding it a good combo of torque and carve; but with such a square-profile tire as the Enduro, by the time you roll the board all the way out to the tire's shoulders, the board wants to bring the deck back level again by torquing the wheel harder. Going back to Flow (which is where I started, since it's the most Mission-like) corrects for this a bit, since the board lets you roll the deck farther to the sides before bringing it back in again. This improves the ridefeel for me, and makes the ride more fun again.
But, in this mode you necessarily lose a little torque, which puts you back to being more cautious when climbing obstacles; and, this doesn't fix the sluggishness off the line, nor does it actually make the board more nimble in its turning (that is, you can LEAN farther to carve or turn, but this is largely the motion of the deck, not the tire itself actually quickly pivoting and changing direction - and this is bad if you're trying to avoid a pothole and hoping you can get the board turned in time to do so).
FINAL THOUGHTS: I'm very glad that TFL made the Enduro - as I said, it's a definite improvement over stock treaded in some important respects, and depending on how you use your board, those respects are arguably enough to justify replacing the stock tire. (If you're a trail or trick rider rather than pavement cruiser, my review may be largely inapplicable to you).
But, I was hoping for an across-the-board, every-category improvement like the WhispeFFT2 was on the XR, and unfortunately this isn't it. To some degree I think TFL was hobbled by certain design decisions FM made on the GT, namely the tightness of the frame to the tire (and let's not forget that the biggest design decision of all - changing the hub size - was strictly a money-grubbing attempt by FM to monopolize the GT tire market. If they hadn't pulled that shit, I might have a Whisper or a FFT2 on my GT right now; we'd have many tire choices available to us, and many of those choices would be cheaper, and we'd have more air cushioning our knees, spines and wheelrims).
Still, we are where we are, and I hope this review helps someone considering a new tire for their GT.
EDIT/ADDENDUM: TFL responded and says the tire must be defective. They're going to replace it. When I've had a chance to install it I'll put up a new review and link back to this one. Thanks TFL!
EDIT 2: Updated Review here.
submitted by Glyph8 to onewheel [link] [comments]
First, let me lay out the tires I've spent a lot of time on and will be using for comparison. I've spent at least 1000 miles minimum each on these (and most of them I've ridden multiple thousands of miles):
- Stock OW Plus/XR Vega (slick)
- FF Whisper (slick) on OW Plus/XR
- FF Terrain 2 (treaded) on OW XR
- Stock treaded on OW GT
FIRST, THE GOOD NEWS: the tire is very stable and shock-absorbing, far more than stock. This is presumably largely due to the soft durometer, and the shape/profile (it is a very "squared" profile, kind of rectangular.) It is also very grippy. So this all goes very much into the Plus column, and is probably enough for me to give this tire a qualified "Buy" recommendation for anyone who uses the tire like I do. I'd call the way it absorbs shock, grips surfaces, and its stability at speed comparable to a Whisper. That's good!
NOW, THE BAD NEWS: due to that same shape and grippiness, however, it steers and handles kinda like a Vega (similar shape - square with wide contact patch - if you look at the footprint it leaves in dirt, it looks like a damn tank tread) and that’s bad. My board feels safer at speed, but not as fun. Even a toothier tread might have helped, since you might be able to pivot the tire on its “teeth”; but this tread is so shallow and mild that it doesn’t allow for that. Just grips and wants to go straight.
It's also more sluggish than the stock GT tire. Slower to take off the line, and I've had to go back to babying the GT a bit over certain train tracks because the board must work harder to turn the softer tire and I've nearly dropped the nose from being too aggressive.
This is compounded by the fact that you just CAN'T run the GT Enduro at a higher PSI without it rubbing the frame - anything above 16-17 PSI, it rubs. Normally if you want to maximize your tire responsiveness and nimbleness you can up the PSI, which rounds the profile and reduces the contact patch - I ran my Whispers as high as 27 or 29 before settling on a more knee-and-spine-friendly 21, and the FFT2 is perfect in the 18-19 range; but that's simply not possible here. I suspect part of the problem is simply that on the GT, FM did not leave much of a gap around the tire, so inflating a soft tire too much just rubs. (A lower-PSI tire generally also sacrifices range and tire longevity, two more minuses for the way I ride).
SHAPING-MODE PARTIAL FIX FOR THE BAD NEWS: The carviness/nimbleness can be somewhat restored by using Flow rather than Highline or Apex - on the stock tire I had gotten used to Highline, finding it a good combo of torque and carve; but with such a square-profile tire as the Enduro, by the time you roll the board all the way out to the tire's shoulders, the board wants to bring the deck back level again by torquing the wheel harder. Going back to Flow (which is where I started, since it's the most Mission-like) corrects for this a bit, since the board lets you roll the deck farther to the sides before bringing it back in again. This improves the ridefeel for me, and makes the ride more fun again.
But, in this mode you necessarily lose a little torque, which puts you back to being more cautious when climbing obstacles; and, this doesn't fix the sluggishness off the line, nor does it actually make the board more nimble in its turning (that is, you can LEAN farther to carve or turn, but this is largely the motion of the deck, not the tire itself actually quickly pivoting and changing direction - and this is bad if you're trying to avoid a pothole and hoping you can get the board turned in time to do so).
FINAL THOUGHTS: I'm very glad that TFL made the Enduro - as I said, it's a definite improvement over stock treaded in some important respects, and depending on how you use your board, those respects are arguably enough to justify replacing the stock tire. (If you're a trail or trick rider rather than pavement cruiser, my review may be largely inapplicable to you).
But, I was hoping for an across-the-board, every-category improvement like the WhispeFFT2 was on the XR, and unfortunately this isn't it. To some degree I think TFL was hobbled by certain design decisions FM made on the GT, namely the tightness of the frame to the tire (and let's not forget that the biggest design decision of all - changing the hub size - was strictly a money-grubbing attempt by FM to monopolize the GT tire market. If they hadn't pulled that shit, I might have a Whisper or a FFT2 on my GT right now; we'd have many tire choices available to us, and many of those choices would be cheaper, and we'd have more air cushioning our knees, spines and wheelrims).
Still, we are where we are, and I hope this review helps someone considering a new tire for their GT.
EDIT/ADDENDUM: TFL responded and says the tire must be defective. They're going to replace it. When I've had a chance to install it I'll put up a new review and link back to this one. Thanks TFL!
EDIT 2: Updated Review here.
2023.02.08 19:21 oneradwheel What's the best "I got my stolen Onewheel back" story that you've heard? Please share.
After reading about this experience, I want to hear some more feel good stories.
https://www.reddit.com/onewheel/comments/10wlf9update_ive_got_my_stolen_onewheel_back/
submitted by oneradwheel to onewheel [link] [comments]
https://www.reddit.com/onewheel/comments/10wlf9update_ive_got_my_stolen_onewheel_back/
2023.02.06 15:59 Winter_Pipe_6785 PSA: Don’t Use Slime Brand Tire Sealant for OneWheels
 | I recently purchased an Enduro and Lifesavers for my OneWheel GT. After installing the new tire and lifesavers I put Slime brand tire sealant in my tire. After 2 days it was weeping pretty badly, but I thought it was possibly the back of the lifesavers where the emblem is located after doing some research on this subreddit. I reached out to Jeff at TFL and he sent me 2 replacement sets of Lifesavers for free. (I think that was probably an accident, but I’m not mad about it haha) I took the Lifesavers off and even sanded down behind the emblem with some fine grit sandpaper to prevent it from happening again. Same results 2 days later, tire is weeping sealant again. Contacted Jeff again and he asked what type of tire sealant I was using. I told him I had purchased some Slime brand tire sealant for small tires, the same bottle sold on C&R’s website at a local store. He told me that Slime is bad in OneWheel applications and that he would send me a free bottle of StayAFloat Tire Sealant. I thought there was no way this tire sealant is any better than Slime, but BOY WAS I WRONG. Great products, and superb customer service. Big shoutout to TheFloatLife ! You guys are great and I now feel confident shredding on my board again! submitted by Winter_Pipe_6785 to onewheel [link] [comments] |
2023.02.06 00:25 mmadden_fishing r/Onewheel_Naples Lounge
A place for members of Onewheel_Naples to chat with each other
submitted by mmadden_fishing to Onewheel_Naples [link] [comments]
2023.02.05 19:40 hcasdorph Did C&R pay to put a onewheel in this locker? Seems too good for free advertising
 | submitted by hcasdorph to onewheel [link] [comments] |
2023.02.04 11:11 MelodicFeed9994 r/OnewheelPohboiHacks Lounge
A place for members of OnewheelPohboiHacks to chat with each other
submitted by MelodicFeed9994 to OnewheelPohboiHacks [link] [comments]
2023.02.01 15:00 IntelliDev r/wheel Monthly Marketplace
Welcome to the monthly wheel Marketplace!
This thread is for everything buy/sell related. Here, users can buy/sell Onewheels and accessories, and vendors are free to promote their wares.
submitted by IntelliDev to wheel [link] [comments]
This thread is for everything buy/sell related. Here, users can buy/sell Onewheels and accessories, and vendors are free to promote their wares.
Guidelines
The marketplace guidelines are as follows:- Please clearly state if you’re buying or selling an item.
- If you’ve sold an item, please edit your post to state that it’s no longer available.
- Linking to your own external shop is permitted, as long as your clearly describe what’s being sold within your comment.
- Affiliate links are not permitted within this thread.
Previous Megathreads
You can find the previous wheel Marketplace megathreads here: https://www.reddit.com/search?q=subreddit:wheel+title:marketplace2023.01.29 01:22 kevlarcupid Error 16 mid-ride: Your Onewheel needs rebooting. Thrown to the ground d
Took my pint out for a ride around the neighborhood today, brought it back home for a charge and went back out to catch up with my kids at the neighborhood playground. Maybe 3.5 miles total. On the way back from the playground, the board just stopped throwing me to the ground.
Now, I’m not so upset about the fall. I’m a little bruised and bloody but that’s a lesson learned in my expectation and reaction to such an event. Hope it doesn’t happen again, but if it does I should be able to handle it with more grace.
But I am worried about the Error 16. Search results didn’t turn up much save for this 2-year-old Reddit thread which itself links to another thread that’s at-best inconclusive.
Any further information in the past couple years?
https://i.imgur.com/8AnrtZe.jpg
submitted by kevlarcupid to onewheel [link] [comments]
Now, I’m not so upset about the fall. I’m a little bruised and bloody but that’s a lesson learned in my expectation and reaction to such an event. Hope it doesn’t happen again, but if it does I should be able to handle it with more grace.
But I am worried about the Error 16. Search results didn’t turn up much save for this 2-year-old Reddit thread which itself links to another thread that’s at-best inconclusive.
Any further information in the past couple years?
https://i.imgur.com/8AnrtZe.jpg
2023.01.26 19:35 Fly_low_and_slow 11 dollar vinyl wrap off Amazon for my gnarly scraped up rails
 | submitted by Fly_low_and_slow to onewheel [link] [comments] |
2023.01.23 03:23 ascendgranite Advice for mounting mini flight fins on a pint stock fender
I’m gonna mount mini flight fins on my stock pint fender soon and would appreciate any advice from those who have already done it.
I’ll also report anything I find during the process for posterity!
EDIT: I did it!
submitted by ascendgranite to onewheel [link] [comments]
I’ll also report anything I find during the process for posterity!
EDIT: I did it!
2023.01.16 00:00 Time-Adhesiveness859 About to get my first Onewheel(GT) and wanted some imput
Hi all,
After my first Onewheel experience last year on the XR that I rented for a week and a half in FL, I am ready to buy as I fell in love but primarily live in WA so was deterred for various reasons at the time.
Anyways, now I’m back and forth from WA to FL and am going to purchase in the next week. I’m a noob and have been surfing C&R site and see lots of mods etc. Is there anything you can suggest in terms of package to buy? Mods to buy if any before riding out of the box? Tool kit to have?
Thanks in advance!
submitted by Time-Adhesiveness859 to onewheel [link] [comments]
After my first Onewheel experience last year on the XR that I rented for a week and a half in FL, I am ready to buy as I fell in love but primarily live in WA so was deterred for various reasons at the time.
Anyways, now I’m back and forth from WA to FL and am going to purchase in the next week. I’m a noob and have been surfing C&R site and see lots of mods etc. Is there anything you can suggest in terms of package to buy? Mods to buy if any before riding out of the box? Tool kit to have?
Thanks in advance!
2023.01.15 06:36 everything_matt_pro Deutsche Community
Hallo zusammen, lasst uns gemeinsam versuchen die Deutschsprachige OW community etwas mehr zu vereinen. Onewheel_DE soll dazu dienen Grouprides zu organisieren, schnelle Hilfe bei technischen Problemen zu bieten, natürlich auch rechtliche Probleme zu diskutieren und vieles weitere (wie zum Beispiel VESC Builds zu zeigen und anderen dabei zu helfen selbst welche zu bauen).
submitted by everything_matt_pro to Onewheel_DE [link] [comments]